Introduction to Bricklaying Tools and Equipment

Bricklaying is one of the oldest and most respected trades in construction. Professional masons build everything from garden walls to load‑bearing structures, and the quality of their work hinges on two things: skill and the right tools. While years of practice develop a mason’s eye for level and plumb, no amount of experience can compensate for inferior or missing gear. The right tools not only speed up the work but also ensure accuracy, consistency, and safety on every job site.

Whether you are a student entering the trade or a seasoned mason looking to refresh your kit, understanding the full range of bricklaying tools is essential. This guide covers the hand tools, power machinery, measuring devices, finishing equipment, and safety gear that every professional should have. We also discuss tool selection, maintenance, and the best practices to keep your equipment performing at its peak.

Basic Hand Tools for Bricklaying

Hand tools form the foundation of any mason’s kit. These are the tools you reach for every day, and quality matters more than quantity. Below we examine each essential hand tool in detail.

The Mason’s Trowel

The trowel is the most personal and important tool in bricklaying. It is used to spread, shape, and cut mortar, as well as to tap bricks into position. Most masons favor a Philadelphia‑style or London‑style trowel, with a diamond‑shaped blade and a comfortable hardwood or plastic handle. Blade lengths typically range from 10 to 13 inches. A well‑balanced trowel reduces wrist fatigue and allows precise mortar control. Some masons keep two trowels on the job: a larger one for buttering bricks and a smaller finishing trowel for detail work.

Brick Hammer

Also called a club hammer or mason’s hammer, this tool has a heavy head with one flat striking face and one chisel‑like or blunt face. It is used to split bricks, trim them to size, or remove old mortar during restoration. The handle is usually made of hickory or fiberglass, and the head weight ranges from 2 to 4 pounds. Proper technique involves scoring the brick with the chisel edge and then striking sharply with the flat face. Protective eyewear is mandatory when using any hammer that can send chips flying.

Pointing Trowel

A pointing trowel is a small, narrow trowel with a tapered blade, usually 4–6 inches long. It is indispensable for applying and finishing mortar in tight spaces, such as joints between bricks after the brick has been laid. Masons also use it to remove excess mortar, fill small gaps, and shape joints for a clean, professional look. A high‑carbon steel blade holds an edge well, allowing the mason to cut mortar cleanly.

Line and Line Blocks

Straight courses are the hallmark of a skilled bricklayer, and the line (or chalk line) is the tool that makes it possible. A nylon or cotton string is pulled taut between two corner blocks or pin blocks placed at each end of the wall. The line acts as a visual guide for laying bricks at a consistent height (typically one brick course). Line blocks are specially designed to hold the line at the correct level while the mason works. Some systems use line pins driven into the mortar joints, but blocks are reusable and do not damage the work.

Additional Hand Tools Worth Having

  • Jointer: A metal tool with a curved or V‑shaped blade used to compress and finish mortar joints for a weather‑tight seal. Common profiles include concave, V‑joint, and raked.
  • Slicker: A flat, wide tool used for smoothing and compacting mortar on top of walls (capping) or on horizontal surfaces.
  • Scutch: A hammer with a replaceable blade or comb used for cutting bricks and blocks or for scoring concrete.
  • Bolster: A chisel‑like tool with a wide blade (3–4 inches) used with a club hammer to make straight cuts in bricks or blocks.

Power Tools and Machinery

While hand tools handle the majority of fine work, power equipment dramatically increases productivity and consistency, especially on large commercial projects or when working with hard materials like engineering bricks or concrete blocks.

Brick Cutters and Saws

A manual brick cutter uses a lever‑actuated blade to score and snap bricks. It is quiet, fast, and does not produce dust—ideal for soft bricks and small jobs. For harder materials or precise cuts, a powered masonry saw (often called a brick saw) with a diamond‑tipped blade is essential. Wet‑cut saws use water to cool the blade and suppress dust, making them safer and cleaner. Portable electric saws with diamond blades are also common for on‑site cuts. Always wear hearing protection and a dust mask when operating power saws.

Mortar Mixers

Consistent mortar is the backbone of strong masonry. Hand‑mixing with a mortar hoe is possible for small batches, but a powered mortar mixer saves time and ensures uniformity. Most mixers are drum‑type or paddle‑type. Drum mixers are the workhorse of the trade, available in gas or electric models. They can handle mortar, concrete, and even stucco. Look for a mixer with a heavy‑duty drum, a reliable clutch, and easy tilt‑in/tilt‑out operation. Key maintenance includes cleaning the drum after each use to prevent hardened mortar buildup.

Angle Grinders

Angle grinders fitted with diamond or abrasive cutting discs are used for cutting bricks, blocks, and tiles, as well as for grinding rough edges. A 4.5‑inch or 5‑inch grinder is common for most masonry tasks, though larger wheels (7–9 inches) are needed for deep cuts. Grinders are powerful and versatile, but they are also dangerous if mishandled. Use a guard, eye protection, and a dust extraction system when cutting. Never use a grinder with a damaged disc or when the trigger lock is defective.

Scaffolding and Work Platforms

Working at height is unavoidable in bricklaying. Scaffolding provides a stable, secure platform for masons and their materials. Frame scaffolding (steel or aluminum) is the most common, with adjustable legs and cross braces. For smaller residential jobs, single‑pole scaffolding or ladder‑jack systems can suffice, but they must be set up correctly to avoid tipping. Always inspect scaffolding before climbing, and never overload it with bricks or mortar. Guardrails and toe boards are required by safety regulations when the platform is above a certain height (typically 6 feet).

Other Useful Power Tools

  • Compressed Air Nailer: Used to fasten wall ties, metal lath, or temporary supports. Speeds up framing work but requires an air compressor.
  • High‑Cycle Vibrator: For consolidating concrete in block‑fill cores or poured walls, ensuring there are no voids.
  • Concrete Saw (Handheld or Walk‑Behind): For cutting expansion joints or openings in existing masonry. Requires a heavy‑duty blade and water supply.

Measuring, Leveling, and Layout Equipment

Precision in bricklaying is non‑negotiable. A wall that is off by a fraction of an inch at the bottom will be significantly out of plumb at the top. Masons rely on a suite of measuring and layout tools to maintain accuracy.

Spirit Levels

A good spirit level is a mason’s best friend. For bricklaying, you need levels of various lengths: a 48‑inch level for long runs, a 24‑inch level for checking individual bricks, and a torpedo level for tight spots. Levels should have durable vials that are easy to read, and the frame must be rigid to avoid flex. Magnetic levels are handy when working near metal studs or rebar. Clean the vials regularly to ensure accurate readings.

Measuring Tapes

A 25‑foot or 30‑foot measuring tape with a wide, standout blade is standard. For laying out foundations and corners, a longer tape (50–100 feet) is useful. Steel tapes are preferred over fiberglass because they hold their shape and do not stretch. Look for a tape with clear, bold markings that resist wear. Many masons keep a smaller pocket tape (12–16 feet) for quick checks.

Chalk Lines

A chalk line is used to snap long, straight reference lines on slabs, walls, or foundations. The line is coated with powdered chalk, stretched tight, and then snapped to leave a visible mark. For outdoor work, use blue or red chalk (black chalk is harder to see on dark surfaces). The line box should be refillable and made of durable plastic or metal. Always wear a dust mask when snapping many lines, as chalk dust can be irritating.

Plumb Bob and Laser Levels

The plumb bob is a simple but accurate tool for transferring a point vertically from one course to another. It consists of a pointed weight on a string. For tall walls or when speed matters, a rotating laser level (self‑leveling) is invaluable. A laser can project a horizontal or vertical plane across the entire work area, allowing the mason to check level and plumb anywhere without moving a level. Remember to use a laser detector in bright sunlight.

Other Layout Tools

  • Framing Square: For checking right angles when laying out corners or cutting bricks.
  • Story Pole: A marked stick that lists course heights, window and door openings, and bond patterns. Saves time by eliminating repetitive measurements.
  • Laser Distance Measurer: For quick, accurate distance measurements over long spans or in tight areas where a tape is awkward.

Mortar Mixing and Finishing Tools

Mortar is the glue that holds a masonry structure together, and its consistency and application affect both strength and appearance.

Mortar Hoe and Tubs

For small batches, a mortar hoe (a garden‑hoe‑like tool but with a curved blade) and a mixing tub (plastic or steel) are still used. The hoe’s wedge‑shaped hole helps combine ingredients thoroughly. For larger mixes, a powered mixer is far more efficient.

Mortar Board and Hawk

A mortar board (or mud board) is a flat, portable platform that holds a fresh batch of mortar within easy reach. A hawk is a hand‑held square board with a handle underneath; the mason scoops mortar onto the hawk and then onto the trowel. This reduces walking and keeps the mortar from sagging. Both items should be made of sturdy, non‑stick materials (often steel with a plastic or wooden base).

Jointing Tools

After a brick is laid and the mortar begins to stiffen, the joints must be finished. A jointing tool (often just called a jointer) is run along the horizontal and vertical joints to compress the mortar and create a weather‑resistant shape. Common joint profiles include concave (the most water‑resistant), V‑joint, raked, flush, and struck. Masons often carry a set of jointers with different sizes to match various brick widths.

Brush and Sponge

Once the mortar is finished, a soft bristle brush is used to sweep away loose grains from the brick faces. For a cleaner look, a damp sponge can be wiped across the bricks to remove mortar smears before they harden permanently. Timing is critical—too soon will smear the mortar, too late will require a chisel.

Safety Equipment

Masonry work involves heavy materials, sharp edges, dust, vibration, and working at height. Proper personal protective equipment (PPE) is not optional—it saves lives and prevents chronic injuries.

Eye and Face Protection

Safety glasses with side shields are the minimum protection against flying chips, dust, and splashing mortar. When cutting with a grinder or saw, a full‑face shield provides better coverage. Prescription glasses must be covered with safety goggles or a shield that fits over them.

Hand Protection

Work gloves are required when handling bricks, blocks, or cutting tools. Look for gloves that combine cut resistance (e.g., Kevlar or HPPE) with good grip. For mortar work, latex‑coated or nitrile‑coated gloves keep hands dry and prevent contact dermatitis from cement. Never wear loose gloves near rotating machinery.

Respiratory Protection

Dust from cutting brick, mixing dry mortar, or grinding contains crystalline silica, which is a known cause of silicosis and lung cancer. A properly fitted N95 respirator or better (N100 or P100) is required when dust levels are high. For prolonged grinding or sawing, a powered air‑purifying respirator (PAPR) offers the best protection.

Foot Protection

Steel‑toe or composite‑toe boots with slip‑resistant soles are mandatory on any construction site (see OSHA guidelines). They protect against falling bricks, dropped tools, and punctures from nails or rebar. Boots should have a good tread for working on scaffolding or wet surfaces.

Hearing Protection

Power saws, mixers, and grinders can produce noise levels above 85 decibels, causing permanent hearing loss with prolonged exposure. Disposable foam earplugs, reusable earplugs, or earmuffs are all effective. Choose a noise reduction rating (NRR) of at least 25 for high‑noise tasks.

Other Safety Gear

  • Hard Hat: Required on most job sites, especially when working below scaffolds or near overhead work.
  • High‑Visibility Clothing: Worn near traffic or heavy equipment.
  • Knee Pads: Masons are constantly kneeling to lay bricks at lower levels. Thick, durable knee pads prevent bursitis and joint damage.
  • Back Support Belt: Reduces the risk of back strain when bending and lifting heavy loads. Used in conjunction with proper lifting technique.

Tool Maintenance and Storage

Even the best tools will fail if not cared for. A few minutes of maintenance at the end of each day extends the life of your gear and keeps it safe.

  • Clean mortar off tools immediately. Dried mortar is acidic and will pit steel. Rinse trowels, jointers, and hawk with water and dry them before storing.
  • Oil wooden handles periodically to prevent cracking and splintering.
  • Sharpen cutting tools (brick hammers, bolster, chisels) when they become dull. A dull tool is more dangerous than a sharp one.
  • Store tools in a dry, ventilated area. Toolboxes or tool bags should be kept off the ground to avoid moisture.
  • Inspect power cords, hoses, and blades before each use. Replace damaged cords or worn blades immediately.

Choosing the Right Tools for Your Needs

Beginners often wonder how much to invest in tools. While entry‑level tools are less expensive, they tend to wear out quickly or deliver poor performance. Professional masons recommend buying the best tools you can afford, especially for the trowel, level, and mixer. Consider these factors:

  • Project type: Residential work requires different tools than high‑rise commercial jobs. A powered mixer is a waste for a small backyard barbecue, but a manual cutter may be too slow for a building façade.
  • Frequency of use: If you work daily, invest in premium brands like Marshalltown, Kraft Tool, or Wacker Neuson. For occasional DIY projects, mid‑range tools are adequate.
  • Ergonomics: Handles should fit your grip. Many manufacturers offer cushioned grips for extended use. A heavy tool can cause fatigue; a too‑light tool may lack authority when cutting.
  • Warranty and parts availability: Choose brands that offer replacement blades, handles, and parts. Downtime waiting for a shipping can cost more than the tool itself.

For more detailed guidance on selecting and using masonry tools, the This Old House masonry section offers practical tutorials and product reviews. Professional organizations like the Masonry Institute also publish standards and tool recommendations.

Conclusion

Bricklaying remains a demanding craft that rewards precision, patience, and the right equipment. From the humble trowel to advanced laser levels and power mixers, each tool serves a specific purpose in creating durable, aesthetically pleasing structures. By understanding the function and proper use of each item, you can work faster, safer, and with higher quality results.

Start by mastering the basic hand tools, then expand into power equipment as your projects demand. Always prioritize safety gear and maintenance. With a well‑chosen toolkit and ongoing practice, you will be well on your way to mastering the timeless art of bricklaying.